No coolers for me. i dont need anything else to have to load up and bring to the boat. I actually make my own ice with a counter top ice machine that makes more ice than we need once it gets started. I even on some weekends run a second refrigerator while out. I do not suggest i have the best or most preferred set up but its perfect for me. i can stay out easily for the weekend and have gone almost 4 days with out having to run my generator to recharge.

The cable in the caravan will be fine… all you are doing is extending the amount of power you are storing not increasing the amount of power going through the caravan wiring. The only problem I have with the parallel hook ups is it is easy to end up losing both batteries, if they don’t have independant monitors. It is quite common for 1 battery to drop a cell and by the time it is found the second has either overcharged to death, or been so badly damaged they both need replacing. I’ve a system that isloates the 2 batteries so that each independantly charges but then connects off charge to give a greater ‘Ah’ bank for draw. Helps limit the problem and makes the ‘Same age/same type’ not such a big deal. You could, however the convention is not to split the load and charging points.

The battery capacity doesn’t really have any bearing on the cable size. It delays my setup by a few days but I don’t mind if this gives my installation more longevity. I’ll email you a drawing tomorrow (it’s nearly midnight here) based on your information. I would think that 16mm2 cable should be alright – I’ll work out the voltage drop to be sure. From what you have said I think I need to upgrade the 16mms link cables to 35mm and run an additional neutral back from aux battery no2 to the ground stud on the wheel arch adjacent to aux battery no1. Its a small toyota hiace Hitop 4wd campervan with 2 lights and all I want to do is run the lights on an evening and charge my phone and laptop.

This type of battery hookup combine both series and parallel connections. One must take care by connecting the batteries in a wrong way or in a poor way that may result in the explosion of the battery and injury. Boat batteries are an essential part of any vessel, providing the power needed to start the engine, run accessories, and keep navigation lights shining. But like any other type of battery, they can cause problems if not properly maintained.

At present, the batteries with higher single voltage are lithium iron phosphate batteries and ternary lithium batteries. Among them, the rated voltage of lithium iron phosphate monomer is 3.2V, and the rated voltage of ternary lithium battery is 3.7V. Install a battery switch so that you can keep one battery charged at all times for starting the boat while you drain the battery for entertainment or navigational purposes.

SolarEdge 5kW backup Interface ATX, 200

I could upgrade these to 35mm if necessary and run a neutral from aux battery 2 back to the neutral of the starter battery or the grounding post next to aux battery no1. I see in the existing setup cabling that a battery earth has been taken from the negative post on the aux battery to a stud on wheel arch next to it… is this a sufficient earth? I’m unsure whether I need to run an additional neutral back to the starting battery or not. However, if the second battery is located some distance from the first it would be usual to increase the size of the interlink cables – in your case to 6mm2 to help reduce voltage drop. The only way to connect the two batteries for your application is in parallel.

I might be wrong here, but I think the 4 prong male end that is wired to the trolling motor has a jumper built in it. Take a look at the male prong to see if you can see the metal jumper between two prongs. I believe you place your wires into the holes that have a greekdates issues jumper built in between them. If you come in contact with an energized black wire– and you are likewise in contact with the neutral white wire– current will travel through your body. You will get a shock if you touch 2 wires at different voltages at the same time.

If the battery cables are connected to the posts, note the color of the cables. The cable connected to the positive post should be red, while the cable connected to the negative post should be black. Now that your batteries are connected, it’s important to test them before heading out onto the water. The best way to do this is by using a voltmeter or multimeter. Simply attach the leads from the meter to each of your batteries’ terminals and check that the reading is between 12 and 14 volts for a 12-volt system, or 24 and 28 volts for a 24-volt system. Use lugs and ring terminals as needed to make secure connections.

While there are many different ways to set up your boat’s batteries, there is only one way that is considered to be the correct way. This is a question that many boat owners ask when they are first installing a new battery on their vessel. The answer is actually quite simple – the battery wires go to the positive and negative terminals on the battery. However, it is important to ensure that the wires are properly connected before turning on the power to the boat. An additional, Most boats use battery wires that are sized from 2 gauge to 6 gauge.

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Portable battery chargers are connected to batteries using alligator clips or a harness attached to the battery posts. The best models are encapsulated with seal-tight materials that protect the unit from shock, vibration and moisture. Good chargers also have automated charge sensors that detect the battery’s voltage level to assure an optimum charge. And therefore as their is a strap cable between both batteries the solar panel will charge both batteries concurrently. If one cell in either of the two 6 volts batteries in series has a problem, then the bank as a whole is affected..

Locate a convenient place to install the battery switch. The best place is near the engine compartment and current battery. Mount the second battery box near the primary battery and secure it with the brackets and screws provided with the kit, using a Phillips screwdriver. It is for these reasons that you are advised to use batteries of the same brand, voltage and capacity. Failing to do so (if you don’t have the knowledge and tools to check what you are doing) could create a potentially dangerous circuit.

As there will be less voltage drop when cranking the engine, the starting should be easier too. From what I understand, your battery A will be one side of the vehicle and battery B on the other side, with maybe 1.81 to 2 metres of cable linking them. I would recommend fuses are installed at the +ve end of each cable. The correct method of sizing a fuse it to rate it at the maximum or below the maximum rating of the cable. The fuses are there to protect the cables from overload.

Mod Jon Boat

I think your inverter will suck the current battery dry in short order, and I would not use a large inverter anyway due to battery drain. If you have a Norcold fridge on the boat it’s set up to run off battery power when not plugged into an AC source and will run off AC when it is plugged in. This will save your batteries, or you can turn it off when under power. I have been looking into how I can hook up my battery system. I have had our F25 HT for about three months, and the batteries now are as such.